Upgrading the Dell Studio XPS for Gaming

The Dell Studio XPS (model MT435) contains the new Intel Core i7 processor, but this range of machines is not designed to compete with their profitable gaming line (for which any i7 model is hugely expensive at present). The XPS model comes in a smaller case with a mATX size main board. Unfortunately the PSU (delta electronics DPS-360) is only 350W and not capable of powering the machine fitted with a modern, power hungry, graphics card. Furthermore, it has no PCI-E power connectors.

here's the unit, right out of the box:

On the back of the machine, note the 92mm case fan and the 80mm rear venting PSU.

Let's assume you have the graphics card to go in it. I will be fitting an ATI Radeon 4870. The XPS main board has only 1 PCI-x16 connector, the rest are useless x8. SLI is out of the question. if you want SLI/crossfire performance buy an x2 card. Whether your card is ATI or nVidia, you will need one or two PCI-E 6 pin power connectors from the PSU for it. Some ATI models even use a PCI-E 8 pin.

First, get a new PSU. Here is what you need:

·         dimensions 150mm x 140mm x 86mm
         This is the smaller ATX standard with 150x180x86 being the larger standard (this won't fit!)

·         A powerful enough PSU (for me 500W)

·         The mainboard needs a 24 pin ATX connector 2x12 and a P8 (2x4 pin) CPU power connector.
         This is the EPS12v standard.

·         Also power for the DVD/HD and PCI-E power lines for graphics.

For the PSU, airflow is an important consideration. I wanted the vent through the back using a 80mm fan rather than the more common (now) 120mm PSU fan fitted into the side of the unit. For example Corsair VX models are the correct dimensions, but the 120mm side fan will vent into the box and onto the CPU. This would work, but i didn't like the idea.

The model i chose was the Antec Earthwatts EA500. This is the correct dimension, vents through a rear 80mm fan and has a P8 connector and 2 PCI-E connectors. It's fairly cheap and gets good electronic review. For more power, checkout the OCZ ProXStream 1000. I think this might fit too.

Here's the new PSU:

First, remove the side panel of the machine. Undo the 4 PSU screws at the back, un-tuck the bent metal hooks holding the wire loom down at the base of the case and lift out the old PSU. You might want to disconnect the wires from the HD, the media reader and DVD too.

Unplug the old PSU from the main board and remove it. Fit the new PSU (the right way up) into the old space and fix back the rear screws. tuck all the non-useful PSU wires away (at the front under the HD in my case). Keep the PCI-E connectors, the main ATX connector and the SATA power connectors ready.

Now you can plug in the 24pin ATX connector and the P8 CPU power connector. Plug back in the HD power, DVD power and media cable, blue HD and orange DVD data connectors. After this everything should be reconnected and you should have just the 6 pin PCI-E graphics connectors free.

Notice above, i fitted a new case fan (red one). I noticed the old case fan is audible and rattles a bit (not enormously), but i wanted to improve the case cooling and noise reduction. A cheap case fan can make a lot of difference. I fitted this one, but i think any separate 92mm case fan would be an improvement.

old and new fan

Note that, if you change the fan, it makes for a lot easier access to the P8 socket when the fan is removed. i removed the fan, fitted the PSU and the P8 connector, then put in the new fan.

Now we get to the graphics card fitting. before this, you might want to power up your unit and check that it works. Once everything is fine, it's time for the graphics upgrade. The original card is a rather weedy ATI 3650 (left) and the new card is a ATI 4870 (right). Note the difference in size.

I was relieved to discover the main board PCI-x16 connector is not the 4th, but the 3rd socket. This is because the new card is double width. even so, it means the new card vents rather close to the side of the machine. This could be a cooling issue (more on this later).

The new card is a lot longer, you need to fit the power to the end and slide it diagonally into the case and then seat it. The connectors on the far edge of the board and their wiring try to get in the way of the fan. I pushed them away and down giving the card maximum vent space. Even so, i hooked the media cable over the top of the card, rather than routing round the back (otherwise it passes the fan).

here's what i mean:

The card also vents from the back:

So this completes the graphics upgrade. After this you need to get the latest drivers, and in my case, the latest catalyst control center (the pain!). However, the new Catalyst control center as well as the generic GPU-Z utility, reports the GPU temperature. The ATI cards always run hot. I was able to use the manual fan override in the control center to adjust the fan speed. Im finding that at 25% fan, it's pretty much inaudible and the GPU runs at under 50 degrees running the desktop, but for games, it needs to be higer.

im finding the card runs no hotter than it did in my previous box and now i have manual control too.

Other differences with the new PSU are the general power consumptions (whole box tested at mains).

It's interesting to note that the steady state power consumption after fitting the new PSU is 13W less. This means a PSU upgrade, to a more efficient one, is an interesting consideration just from a power saving point of view.